Agent Provocateur

"Girls, girls, girls: sex kittens, sex bombs, seductresses, naughty girls, secretaries, school girls and Kate Moss" Serena Rees & Joseph Corre

Founded in 1994, Agent Provocateur's designers Serena Ross & Joseph Corre created sexy and experimental lingerie making the open market look up and take notice. Crotch less pants or furry handcuffs became widely available in stores which were fronted by curvaceous bosomed women dressed in lingerie which appealed to both the male and female market; giving women the reassurance that they would never disappointment when revealing their underwear.

www.agentprovocateur.com

 




Alberta Ferretti

"I try to transform a dream's magic into reality" Alberta Ferretti

From Cattolica, Italy, Alberta Ferretti came to the fashion scene in 1980 with the help of her brother Massimo as chairman, who now owns key stakes in Moschino and Jean Paul Gaultier. Elegant dresses, light weight material and endless rolls of ribbon all play a key role in Ferrettis' feminine, 1950's fellini movies inspired designs. Alongside Ferretti's diffusion line; Philosophy di Alberta Ferritti, she owns swimwear/lingerie label Velmar and shoemaker Pollini. 1980 brought Alberta and Massimo together in business shortly before Ferrettis debut collection appearing on Milan's runway in 1981.

www.aeffe.com

 
                                                  
                                                     A-Poc

"What inspires me is whatever helps you to get away from mental pollution" Jean Touitou

 With the fashion industry never in his eye sight and only a history degree under his wing, the accidental work with Kenzo led him to go his own way in 1987 and the birth of APC; Atelier de production et de Creation. Starting with menswear it quickly developed introducing womenswear the following year. 1991 saw the opening of the first store in Japan, with now stores in New York and Paris. APC music label sees names such as Marc Jacobs and Sofia Coppola putting their names on compilations from APC including dance, punk-jazz and French Arabic.

www.isseymiyake.com

 

 
Balenciaga

"The history of the house is incredible, which means I can work with a lot freedom" Nicolas Ghesquiere

1968 saw the closing of Cristobal Balenciagas couture house which followed to remain empty for years. Yet in 1997, Nicolas Ghesquiere became creative director of Balenciaga, giving a new life to the label. Winning Vogue/VH1 Avant Garde Designer of the year award and CFDA womenswear designer of the year in 2001 he was soon labeled ‘the most intriguing and original designer of his generation' Spring/Summer02 welcomed his green silk combats to be a number seller and copied item, with the same occurring in Spring/Summer03 with his Neoprene mini skirts.

www.balenciaga.com

                                                                                                                                       
                                                                          Burberry
                                                                          I'm a very down-to-earth designer" Christopher Bailey.

Yorkshire man Christopher Bailey, creative director of British company Burberry hardly an easy climb to fame. Graduating from Royal College of Art in London in 1994 he went onto work for Donna Karen in New York until 1996 where he was then hired by Tom Ford as a senior designer of womenswear at Gucci in Milan till 2001. Having removed all signs of the now forbidden hallmark Burberry check, Bailey tends to stick to slick tailoring with hidden innovations in both women's and men's wear. Closely following traditional designs of Burberry meant the appearance of the re-invented trench coat in 2004, transforming them into capes.

www.burberry.com

 

 

Calvin Klein

"It's really amazing when you see your designs on the streets" Italo Zucchelli.

 

The Spring/Summer 04 collection was Zucchellis debut show for Calvin Klein. Having spent two years attending the architecture university before graduating from Polimoda School of fashion designer in Florence in 1998, he continued onto work for womenswear at Jil Sander's and designer Romeo Gigli before going onto work for Calvin klein. Zucchelli works alongside the philosophy of; ‘an aesthetic inspired by the human form and the idea of designing clothes that relate directly to the body in a sophisticated and effortless manner.

www.calvinklein.com


                                                          Chanel

"I am neither in the past nor avant-garde. My style follows life" Gabriella Coco Chanel.

 The start of Coco Chanel in 1913 by Gabriella ‘Coco' Chanel is one of the most iconic and well known designer and household name of the 20^th century. Famous for the introduction of the little black dress and quilted handbags, the label has become something of lust. The Chanel No'5 perfume which was invented in 1921 is still a number one seller and a fashion ‘classic', alongside the tweed women's suits from the 50's. The death of Chanel in 1971 left behind a strict list of house codes including that of the usage of pearls, tweed, evening bags and the love of sport. With Karl Lagerfeld's take over Chanel now owns stores across the world, with a multi-floored store in Tokyo which includes a restaurant, Beige Tokyo and a glassy façade with sparkly lights to represent its famous tweed.

www.chanel.com

 



Chloe

"I'm inspired by sunsets, sunrises, being with horses and love" Phoebe Philo.

With Maria Callas and Grace Kelly as original fans of Chloe's first collection of six dresses in 1952 Chloe was born to be as world renowned as it is today. Karl Lagerfeld was appointed house designer in 1966, which was followed by the dramatic increase of popularity throughout the late 60's and 70's. Heiress Christina Onassis even bought 36 blouses in one visit. The resignation of Karl Lagerfeld in the 1983 meant a slump within Chloe. Yet in 1997 when Stella McCartney joined the Chloe team, Chloes images dramatically developed in to a rock'n'roll chic image thanks to McCartneys famous friends such as Kate Moss and Cameron Diaz being keen fans. Phoebe Phil finally took over in 2001 after work in close conjunction with McCartney over her 4 year period.

www.chloe.com

 

 
Dolce & Gabbana

"Fashion's answer to Viagra" Fashion Now 2, Taschen

The combination of theatrical ideas and tailoring perfection allows Dolce & Gabbana to produce garments which are perfect for the idealistic celebrities of today. With Domenico Dolce's father being a tailor himself and teaching him to construct a jacket by the age of seven he was several steps ahead of most others! Yet the meeting of Stefano Gabbana in Dolces hometown really confirmed their partnership. Their opposite ideas in fashion are the key ingredients to making them so popular and individual. Started in 1985 there inspiration still spurs from Hollywood films, music and football stars.

www.dolcegabbana.it



Dries Van Noten

"I aim to create fashion that is neutral in such a way that each person can add his or hers own personality to it" Dries Van Noten

Born in Antwerp, 1958, Belgium and originating from the "Antwerp Six' designers of March 1986, his signature designs are inspired from traditional techniques of India, Morocco or Eastern Europe. From selling a small selection of shirts to Barneys, New York and Whistles in London, they followed to request a similar collection but in sizes suitable for women. 1991 brought his first collection of menswear to the catwalk in Paris, closely followed by a womenswear collection in 1993. His idea of fashion is known to be of an individual piece/style for each client rather than basing several ideas around one shape.



 


                                                                Giles Deacon

"I am always happy if people give my designs the time of day"

Presented with the British Fashion Award of 2004 for Best New Designer, Giles Deacons first approach to London's Central St Martins in 1992 he labeled as a pure novelty factor is far from what his successful career now stands at. In 1998 he was chosen by Tom Ford, then head of Gucci, to design for Bottega Veneta before making the decision to have a go at the fashion world alone. His first collection in 2004 titled ‘Disco Jacobean fairytale' was sophisticated womenswear with a hint of 40's style items. Prints used by Deacon are often inspired by Art Nouveau demonstrating his illustrational side, but also has done a collection for Agent Provocateur.

 


                                                               Giorgio Armani.

"He's an institution, an icon and a multinational, billion-dollar brand" Fashion now 2

Passing his 50^th year as a successful designer, Giorgio Armani is a well renowned name and creator. First studying medicine and completing his national duties he only began to really shine when in 1975 he set up the Giorgio Armani label. Unstructured jackets and simple colours suggested by Armani rebelled against the structured look of the 70's and 80's yet worked incredibly well for Armani himself.  He has had the cover of Time magazine in 1982, as well as being presented with awards including Honorary Doctorate from the RCA in 1991. His fashion line has now even developed into other areas of fashion, such as bed linen and even chocolate!

www.giorgioarmani.com

 


                                                    Gucci

                                                 "I think of a mood, a way of living, a certain needs" Frida Giannini

In 1921 Guccio Gucci first established itself as a small family run business in Florence. Guccio then collaborated the double ‘g' to create the famous logo which is still used today, yet the label really took off in the mid 90's when Tom Ford took charge, moving the name forward and transforming it into a slick, sought after label. In 2004, Ford left Gucci along with the Gucci group and was replaced by a team of three; John Ray; menswear, Alessandra Facchinetti; womenswear and Frida Giannini; accessories.

www.gucci.com

 


                                                     Hermes

"I create clothes as vetements-objects" Fashion Now 2

Most famous for its handcrafted, desirable leather bags, Hermes has had real success with bags such as its ‘Kelly' and ‘Birkin'. 2004 began the start of Hermes womenswear according to Jean Paul Gaultier, who took over from Martin Margiela, and ran alongside menswear designer Veronique Nichanian who designed for the company since 1988. Hermes had a line of sportswear clothing available in the 20's but it wasn't until the 50's that Hermes won a male fan base by introducing a selection of silk printed ties. Menswear then developed into more tailored wear, aimed at men of a particular income and of certain look, thanks Veronique Nichanian, who carried on to win the City of Paris Grand Prix of Creative Art prize for Hermes.

www.hermes.com

 

 Jimmy Choo

 "Every time I see someone wearing Jimmy Choo I still feel overwhelmed with excitement" Tamara Mellon

The year 1996 brought Jimmy Choo production into full line, Choo had long before then been developing the shoes before Tamara Mellon suggested the idea; the idea of the fantasy of Jimmy Choos. Sourcing Italian manufacturers, Mellon opened the first Jimmy Choo in Knightsbridge, London, in 1996. In 2001 Equinox Luxury Holdings Ltd took over Mr Choos share of the business and opened another 26 stores. By November 2004 Jimmy Choo was estimated to be worth around £101million.

www.jimmychoo.com

 

 
  Jonathan Saunders

"I'm inspired by movements in design and fine art that challenge what was perceived as beautiful" Jonathan Saunders

Its been suggested that Jonathan Saunders is the future of British fashion, with his textiles based prints relevant to the 21^st century, Saunders has not only challenged where's prints are used, for example on skin tight garments but also used colour pallets unknown to Pantone. Beginning at Glasgow School of Art, he went on to graduate from Central St Martins MA Fashion course in 2002 and then winning the Lancôme colour award.  Having been hired by Alexander Mc Queen just a mere two days after graduating and having also being hired by Chloe and Pucci, its no wonder stars such as Kylie Minogue  were pining after his 2003 catwalk designs. In 2004, his ‘Ziggy' dress took no'1 spot on the cover of British Vogue

www.jonathan-saunders.com





                                               Marc Jacobs

"It's important for me that my clothes are not just an exercise in runway high jinks" Marc Jacobs

Born in New York, Upper West Side, and under influence of a fashion conscious grandmother, Jacobs quickly became submerged into the glamorous life style which surrounded places such as Studio 54 and Mudd Club. Graduating in 1984 with a fashion degree from Parsons School of Design, his collection caught Robert Duffy's attention whom he still works with today. Launching their first ever collection in 1986, they went on to win a CFDA award, one of their six to date. Jacobs went onto work at Perry Ellis, which was of little success due to his famous ‘grunge' collection, but managed to pick himself up again by 1997 when LVMH appointed him artist director at Louis Vuitton.

www.marcjacobs.com

 


Matthew Williamson.

"Colour is the thing I'm best known for. If people pigeonhole me, so what? Long live the pink dress!" Matthew Williamson

Born in Manchester, 1971, he graduated from Central St Martins in 1994 and had managed to set up his own label by 2006 after working at Monsoon for two years. Matthew Williamson's key style is colour, often adding flashes of neon yellow or bright pink to his creations since his first collection in 1997; ‘Electric Angels' containing bias cut dresses and modelled by friends such as Jade Jagger and Kate Moss. Williamson is clearly influenced by the London scene of glamour, people and his constant traveling around the world. Having begun to produce perfume, he now sells to over 80 stores world wide and has a flagship store based here in London which opened in 2004.

www.matthewwilliamson.com




                                                      Missoni

"Sits happily on the red carpet at it does in the wardrobe of modern bohemians" Fashion Now 2

The house of Missoni goes back over 50 years of rare creative fashion. Starting as a small knitwear factory in 1953 by Rosita and Ottavio Missoni in the heart of Italy, Missoni has developed into a household name across the world. 1967 saw the first catwalk show of Missoni appear on Florence's catwalk. By 1970 their strong flamboyant styles of stripes and zig zags  became instant recognizable hits across the world, and being described by the American press as a ‘put together look' With Angela Missoni take over in 1993 the label began to see the introduction of different styles and patterns yet still keeping Missonis original look.

www.missoni.com

 
                                                                   
                                             Prada
 
                                            "Fashion is an important part of a woman's life" Miuccia Prada

Milan, 1950, saw the birth of Miuccia Prada, who having studied political science at the city's university also became labeled one of Wall street Journal's 30 most powerful women in Europe. Prada having first being established in 1977 by husband Patrizio Bertelli, saw the first womenswear collection being established in 1988, closely followed by the miu miu line in 1993, menswear in 1994, Prada sport in 1997 and Prada beauty in 2000. Prada has its own art foundation and collaborations with architect Rem Koolhaas in New York.

www.prada.com

 
 
                                                                             Roberto Cavalli

"Nature is my main source of inspiration- I will never stop taking hints from what I call ‘the greatest artist' " Robert Cavalli

Cavalli was born in Florence 1940, studying at Florence's Academy of Art, his designs became more and more extravagant; experimenting with different leathers with the combination of paints and denim. Having founded his own fashion company in the early 60's he soon became the first to put leather on the catwalk. His catwalk shows are guaranteed to be reasonably theatrical, with the supply of animal prints, feathers, fur, leather and highly preened models cascading down the catwalk. Although the 80's were seen to be a quite period of Cavalli's career the 90's saw a comeback worth waiting for. With guidance from his second wife his new collection portrayed sex appeal, extravagant themes and ideas from across the globe. In 2003 it was reported that Cavalli had a turnover of over €289million and collections in over 30 countries.

www.robertocavalli.com

 
                                                                     Stella McCartney

                                                                     "I never thought a 75 year old woman would wear my clothes. And she was fucking cool" Stella McCartney

Although daughter of one of the most famous musicians of all time, Stella McCartney is far from the type to use her name; born in 1971 and graduating from Central St Martins in 1995, McCartney was an instant hit with her final collection with retailers across the country. Her smart trouser suits and vintage inspired dresses led her to work with Chloe until 2001 when she chose to launch her own line of clothing. New York was the first to open a McCartney store in 2002, closely followed London and Los Angeles. McCartney is always experimenting with various artists and materials, working with Gary Hume in 2002 producing handmade clothing and with the action movie ‘Sky Capitain' in 2004.

When producing her collections of clothing she prefers to focus largely on herself and friends, being constantly aware of ‘only the cool people'

www.stellamccartney.com



Versace

"To live everyday as if it's your last"

Donatella Versace is un-doubtably one of the most glamorous and well known women of today's fashion world. Her sparkling and glitzy image is one which the Versace clothing line is clearly inspired by. Gianni Versace set up Versace in 1978 and called on the help of Donatella Versace in the early 80's and throughout the 90's. Young Versace came to light in 1993, shortly before Donatella fully took over the family business due to her brother's death in 1996. Donatella quickly brought Versace into the 21sty century, and with the help of people such as Elizabeth Hurley and Madonna fronting Versace campaigns, the company is continuously rising in success. The very first six star Versace hotel was later opened on the Gold Coat of Australia in 2000.

www.versace.com

 

                                                        Vivienne Westwood

"There's nothing sexier than a twin set......sexier still is the cardigan twin set, worn by itself with the buttons undone." Westwood

With the Victoria & Albert museum dedicating a seven year tour traveling across the globe, to Westwood's creations it is not hard to call her the ultimate fashion legend. Born in 1941 and without any university degree she introduced the punk uniform and collections named ‘Let it rock', ‘SEX' and ‘Buffalo girls' into the conscious seventies era, possibly being the pioneers of punk. Named one of six most influential designers of the 80's by Women's wear daily and awarded an OBE 15 year after being arrested during the Queens silver jubilee she continues to surprise, including being awarded British Designer of the year, twice. Westwood also designs MAN, a collection for men and three perfumes, all sold across the world.

www.viviennewestwood.com

 


                                                    Yohji Yamamoto

"If fashion does have such ambition, I would describe it has ‘freedom'"

With seasonal references to Parisian haute couture, the loyalty to black and a sense of romance within his designs, Yohji Yamamoto is somewhat a unique individual who fought against his mother's wishes of studying law at Tokyo's Keio University to instead follow his dreams of fashion at Bunka School, where he graduated in 1969. From helping at his mothers store fitting clients he went onto establish his own label in 1971 and have his first show in Tokyo in 1977 by 1981 when he showed his work in Paris he was experiencing almost instant success. Yamamoto style has been labeled ‘Hiroshima Chic' because he sent his models down the catwalk wearing white make-up and black clothing. Yamamoto now has over 223 stores worldwide and various fragrances and casual collections for both men and women.

www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp

 

                                                          Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

"Because it's Saint Laurent, I think about silhouette, imagery and how I can refer to the past we have"

Saint Laurent was born 1936 in Algeria, becoming one of the most important designers of the 20^th century, being the reason for pussy-bow blouses became fashionable and smoking being a glamorous habit. Saint Laurent was one if the first to embrace the idea of ready-to-wear fashion, opening his first store in 1966. 1998 saw Saint Laurent and partner Pierre Berge bring Alber Elbaz into help on their designs but only a year later saw him being replaced by Tom Ford due to the Gucci group purchase of YSL ready-to-wear.  In 2000 Stefano Pilati was appointed designer director of YSL, quickly followed by presenting his first Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche collection in 2004, which featured polka dot mini dresses and wide waist belts.

www.ysl.com

 

Zac Posen

"Make women feel strong, sexy, romantic and confident by creating the classics of the future" Zac Posen

At only 25 years old and already earning the prestigious prize of having one his pieces in the V&A permanently, the New York born designer has not only proved himself worthy of the fashion industry but already gained the backing of ‘Puff Daddy's fashion line; Sean John. Posen joined Central St Martins in 1999 but quickly dropped out and instead set up his own label causing instant success. His bias-cut pieces were quickly recognized by the fashion industry and became a finalist in the ENKA International Fashion Design Award and wining Perry Ellis Award in 2004.

www.zacposen.com

 

 

Stefano Pilati.