Well, the very safe truth is - a continuation of the key trends already emerging for Spring/Summer. Plenty of black, slate, dove and neutral with flashes of Crayola-brights made up many a colour palette. Streamlined silhouettes, sensible hem lengths, origami detailing plus a nod to the late 60s/early 70s created a good proportion of what was on offer.

While the likes of Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Marni, Burberry and Prada received positive reviews many felt the collections this season had proved ‘uninspiring’ and ‘lackluster’. A mood which could well be attributed to the fragile state of the current global economy. “Designers are playing it safe with quality wearable pieces that will last,” Susan Knowles, an independent boutique buyer commented. “I definitely noticed a quieter mood this season, not just in terms of what was shown on the catwalks but at the accompanying trade shows too.”

Milan, it appeared, had lost its mojo, known as the city of ‘sexy chic’ Autumn/Winter 08/09 was all about covering-up and being demure as hemlines dropped and necklines rose. Paris, also received mixed reviews with designer heavyweights John Galliano opting for a 1920’s Oriental inspired route while Jean Paul Gaultier went for all-out-luxe with his fur laden collection – not the most popular of materials at the best of times.

Key trends from the international collections for Autumn/Winter 08/09:

Colours:

Black, slate, dove, autumnal russets, ruby reds and Crayola brights.

Themes:

Gothic Romance – Heavy lace, lashings of black, capes, hoods, dramatic sleeves, glossy fabrics and dark moods.

Streamlined – Slick, fuss-free tailoring with attention focused on the shoulder and neckline area.

Origami – Random folds and pleats that give a sculptural feel to otherwise simple silhouettes.

Tartan, Plaid & Checks Galore – An Autumn/Winter favorite this time seen at the likes of Preen, DKNY, D&G, Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Westwood.

Other themes to take note of – 70s Chic, Victoriana, 60s Couture, Layered Transparency and Fluid Minimalism.

Details: Fringing, tassels, pleats, folds, feathers, leather panelling, giant sequins, random embellishments.

Accessories: Tonal and patterned hosiery, ankle boots, peep-toes, neck-scarves and head-scarves.

Trousers: Still slim-line and lean with relaxed slouchy shapes starting to emerge such as harem style pants that taper at the ankle.

Fabrics: Tartan, lace, sateen, wool, leather, chiffon, Mongolian furs and velvet.

By JoJo Iles

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