Subdued, elegant, austere, can you believe we are talking about the latest round of collections from Milan here? Milan – known for its high-voltage super-sexy designs - think Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace and you get the picture. Not so for Autumn/Winter 2008/09, Milan it seems has grown-up and covered-up with a luxurious new mood.

For the most part silhouettes remained lean and chic, at Jil Sander for example Raf Simons stuck to pencil-thin tailored coats and dresses that looked minimal but were full of innovative details such as sculptured necklines, origami folds and off-centre cuts. And while overall the collection appeared rather stark in a palette of black, slate and taupe it was chock-full of wardrobe essentials that Sander fans will no doubt love.

Prada, as we mentioned earlier in the week, somehow managed to do wonders for lace. Prada’s silhouettes remained very simple which was key to working with such a difficult fabric. Subversive in its nature - lace can be seen as stiff and prim or tarty and perverse depending on how it is used. Here it provided surface texture and swirls of elegant florals around the body while the see-through aspect added a hint of naughtiness to what were otherwise very ladylike shapes.

Dolce & Gabbana managed to surprise the fashion pack with their ‘covered-up’ collection. Fleeing from their usual ultra-sexy ways the duo whipped up designs that combined 70s chic with luxurious and heavy fabrics. Tweed, checks and stripes were layered up with Mongolian furs and austere high necks. While flat caps, silk neck ties, leather bags and belted waists provided the styling details.

Bottega Veneta also opted for the simple, understated route, although Tomas Maier’s designs fell closer to the body in a fluid, effortless manner. Liquid silks and jerseys were fashioned into dresses of various hues while cocooning coats were bulked up with looped cashmere ribbons.

Another label known for its overtly sexy creations is Roberto Cavalli, although Cavalli and his team opted for a romantic route last season, it looks like they have remained on this path for Autumn/Winter 08. Vintage Hollywood glamour, prom dresses and florals were the order of the day and in case you got confused about what season you were in these summer style frocks were worn over long-sleeved tees and Victoriana blouses – with not a jot of animal print in sight.

All-in-all the message from Milan for Autumn/Winter 08/09 is loud and clear – cover-up in sleek, sophisticated lines in quiet autumnal colours. Pay attention to detail and high quality fabrics say those chief executives beefing up the luxury market to boost their IPOs. Sensible times ahead indeed, let’s see what Paris has to offer…

By JoJo Iles