I am so tired of everybody giving couture
a hard time. Every couture season there are umms and aahs about the relevance
of couture in today’s fashion industry. It’s too extravagant, too impractical,
a financial waste for the designers. But, it’s couture that provides the
fantasy, theatricality and unashamed glamour that is at the heart of fashion.
Without it, fashion would be nothing more than a seasonal modification to be
plagiarised by the high street. By Becky Lyon
With couture there are no boundaries,
limits or constraints for the designer when it comes to couture. It is an
indulgent opportunity where creative dreams are realised and the commercial
ties of the industry are temporarily loosened. Make up your own mind, but first
we have offered you the highlights from the latest shows where flower fairies,
mermaids and human flowers took to the catwalk…
Chanel
…took ‘nautical’ to a whole new dimension
with a collection literally littered with sea-side references. Shell shapes,
patterns and under water plants provided a host of textural and sculptural
inspiration.
We loved…the ‘ocean floor carpet’
dresses.
Dior
…continued to explore the richness of
fifties couture-meets-Orientalism via an experimental collection of constructed
volume, jewel tones and manipulated fabrics.
We loved…the hint of Gustav Klimt.
Elie Saab
…was a vision of freshwater pearl hues
dripped in silver rain. The ethereal, embellished creations appeared to beam
down the catwalk and were the last word in exquisite.
We loved…top to toe sparkle.
Armani Prive
…gave us their take on ‘flower fairies’
featuring a fascinating exploration of organic textures, fabrics manipulated
into flower like pleats and ruffles.
We loved…the new ‘flower fairy’.
Givenchy
…created architectural elegance with
fabrics folded into walking flowers, glamorised further by jewel-dripped
fabrics, ostrich feathers and full–length chiffon over layers.
We loved…the ‘ruff’ blouse.
Jean Paul Gaultier
…provided his own take on ‘nautical’ with
a mythical, fantastical look at the mermaid. Full-sequined ‘scales’ with
fishtail hems, nets and shells completed the look.
We loved…mermaids.
Christian Lacroix
…read like a list of sketchbook
favourites. Ideas were plucked and mashed together with incoherent, sporadic
styling. Rainbow stained voluminous silk met circus shapes, gold foil and a
dollop of Paul Poiret.
We loved…the usual mix mash.
Anne Valerie Hash
…presented a glorious feminine vision
with subtle architectural geometry, a palette ranging from canary to barely
pink and fabrics from oversized checks and twinkling chiffon.
We loved….her interpretation of girly
futurism.
Valentino
…heralded the spring time aesthetic and
gave us ice-cream coloured satin, posy prints, bridal lace and Belle Époque
beauties for his emotional finale show.
