| Milan Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2008 |
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Key shows, themes
and trends by Becky Lyon
Day 1: Sunday 13th JanuaryThere was something initially a little bit Oliver Twist going on at Burberry with oversized pea coats, postman caps and fingerless gloves all in luverly shades of grey. Any hint of pauper-chic was quashed with beautiful textured oxblood cardigans, rich paisley prints, lace(!) trimmed jerseys, shimmering moss green silk and a climax of full-feathered coats.
Versace was a beacon of Italian elegance as usual and revelled in yet another leaning to sumptuous iridescence with damson, aubergine and olive. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana provided a wardrobe fit for winter with massive furry coats lined with fluffy fleece, tangible velvet jackets, trimmed scarves and thick knits. At Jil Sander, you’d expect nothing more than paired down, clean minimalism.
Day 2: Monday 14th January One of the collections of the week has to be Alexander McQueen which was littered with fascinating references to Indian costume with oversized paisley prints, gold embroidery and sari-style wrap detail worn unconventionally over shirts and waistcoats. Oddball additions included leopard print cardigans, super-sized chunky red scarves, jumbo checks and yeti-fur coats.
The Bottega Veneta show featured utility details such as buckles and metal buttons adorning workman’s blue overalls and painter’s all-in-one whites. There was also a nod to the thirties with razor-sharp jackets paired with baggy pants (which appeared throughout the show) and tailcoats fit for Fred Astaire.
Prada displayed yet more shimmery shades and electric blue but also sober, clean-cut suits and barely-there flesh coloured knits.
Day 3: Tuesday 15th January Gucci was a vision of bohemian luxury with rusty coloured velvet jackets clashed with retro print scarves and shirts. Looks were layered with exciting visual elements; leather jackets were patched with military insignia over asymmetric cardigans and coloured scarves were secured around the waist of seventies rock star fur coats. This collection is bound to be a point of reference for the autumn high-street collections.
Cavalli took a break from his usual glitzy stance and went back to basics, re-focusing on impeccable tailoring like so many of the other collections. Once again, texture, imperial blue and velvet fabric shone as key directives for the forthcoming season.
You couldn’t help but love the ballerina pink roll-necks and satin trousers finished with neon shoes at the Dirk Bikkembergs show. The whole collection was athletic, casual and a welcome change from the rich colours and heavy fabrics of the previous collections.
Day 4: Wednesday 16th January Armani equalled gentleman from Victorian dandy to Wall Street thirties. Suiting again, was high on the agenda emphasising the art of the great cut. Fabrics were addressed with recurring velvet and city-slicker pin stripes whilst dark neutrals dominated the colour palette.
D&G took a walk on the highland side with an adventurous fling with tartans, plaids and chunky wool knits. Print clashing was another prominent feature, think argyle sweaters, plaid jackets, striped shirts and patterned ties.
Fendi was simplistic although beautiful with uncluttered styling and some surprisingly sculptural shapes. Shades of woodland brown alongside organic textural fur softened the slim suit constructions.
There’s something very futuristic going on at Calvin Klein, although not in the most obvious way. The collection was also reminiscent of the past but at the same time, the shapes look new and very considered, whether it be ‘shapeless’ over coats or robotic sweaters.
Check back on FashionCapital for up & coming catwalk coverage.
By Becky Lyon
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