Womenswear Key Trend Summary/Spring/Summer 2006 Print E-mail

 

 

 

Credits: M.H. Baille scott, Megan Park, Calvin Klien, Frank Lloyd Wright, Vogue Beauty June, Daks, Vintage Artpapers, Estee Lauder.

Moodboard by Caroline Shaw.

  

Arts and Crafts, by Caroline Shaw

The major inspiration for this story are taken from the  influences of the Arts and Crafts Exhibition currently on at the V & A in London. The colours and patterns are nostalgic

looking back to the beginning of the century, with pastoral and vintage decorum!

This is a highly decorative story with influences from William Morris’s textiles and the Art nouveau movement, also using a mix of cultural influences from England, Vienna, Japan and America.

Colours

The major focus of the story is how to use the earthy colours of the palette. The colours form a soft and naturally harmonizing palette.

The colours are typical of the Arts and Crafts movement using vegetal dyes, creamy parchment, soft corals and melon, mixed with olive and peacock blue. The colours can be updated and perfect for a transitional palette, by using the delicate pink tones to soften the more earthy greens and neutrals.

Prints and Embroideries

The prints and embroideries are mainly inspired by the beautiful wallpaper designs of William Morris. The designs feature natural vegetal influences and precise symmetry of flowing florals. Japanese Art Nouveau print influences of highly stylized flowers are popular. The key is to keep the colours light, fresh and feminine,as a transitional story.

Print is the key feature for not only fashion, but also for shoes and bags this Autumn.  

Plains and Colourwovens

The key fabric influences are taken from 1930’s artisan cloths. Rustic natural fibres and weaves, featuring cotton, linen and silk yarns. The handles are dry and dense. Suitings and heavy cloths have raw natural slub effects whilst silk chiffons are dry and light like 30’s dance dresses.







 

 

Credits: Valentino (3 images) Claudio Merazzi, Ascher, Accessorize, Jimmy Choo, Blaumarine , Caroline Shaw archive. 

Moodboard by Caroline Shaw.

 

Tropical Islands, By Caroline Shaw.

  

What’s the story?

This story is hot, sexy and sultry. Think of feverish rhythms and long tropical jungle nights. This is a mad fusion of all ethnic influences – Indonesia goes Bollywood! It’s a blazing paradise with a surreal and exotic blend of influences from Hawaii to Africa and India. Stand out and be distinctive!

Colours.

These colours are hot, fresh and lively. A heady mix of hot and a smattering of cool colours in the palette give a vibrant tropical blend, without being brash or vulgar. The colours are inspired by exotic tropical flowers, and the beach scenes of tropical islands. Think of hot corals, hibiscus pinks, lemon zing, tropical greens and the aquas and vibrant blues of the lagoon and sky.  

Prints and embroideries.

Luxuriant jungle print influences of palm leaves, tropical flowers and animal prints often with a Hawaiian influence. These are taken to a surreal form by being out of scale, hand drawn or broadly painted.

Other influences are the fusion of ethnic prints inspired by Indian paisleys, mixed with Afro, Latino and Caribbean traditional designs.

Again, often being huge and out of scale. The intense print colors are toned down by being on either black or tinted bases and on soft sheer bases.

Plains and colourwovens.

Summer tropical lightweights rule, often with cotton influenced mixes. The sheer cottony voiles, creepy weaves and seersuckers offer comfort and coolness in the tropical heat. 

Colourwovens are in surprising hot coloured stories, using madras checks and tonal stripes in semi tone on tone weave. Weaves in metallic tones of bronze or silver add excitement and luxury to this beach inspired story.

 

 

Credits: L'oreal, Unseen Vogue, Alberta Ferretti, Daks 05, John Simmons, Matisse, Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Emanual Ungaro.
Moodboard by Caroline Shaw.
Botanical Fairytale, By Caroline Shaw

  

What’s the story?

Imagine luxury of an imaginary escape to a secret fairytale garden. Floral roses and natural floral inspirations offer romanticism tinted with a hint of nostalgia. English embroidery, vintage décor and floral motifs provide an artisan touch. This story is feminine, sensual and decorative.

Colours

This tonal colour story encompasses the purply/ blues and damsons to pinky rose/ lilac spectrum. The colours are inspired by the deep Summer flowers in the gardens of the South of France, and also by the paintings of Matisse and Monet. A return to Arts and Crafts.

Prints and patterns

Taking inspiration from the delicate botany of the garden, the prints are almost always flowers.  From large -scale roses to tiny muted scale florals. Sometimes abstract florals appear. The colours are always muted and tonal. Wear the prints separately or mixed in an outfit. Print bases are the old-fashioned 30’s fabrics, chiffons, crepons, muted satins, cotton lawns and fine linens.

Plains and colourwovens.

The weaves designs feature casual cottony indigo Ikat weaves or delicate stripes, often with a hint of metallic. They are always tonal in colour and in lightweight cottons or linens. These look great when mixed with the florals in an outfit. (Kenzo)  Plains are romantic satins, chiffons, fine cottons, sueded linens or sheer silks. All help create the lightest, most delicate of garments. 

 

 

 

Credits: Ascher fashion fabric & Art, Loreal, Noa Noa, Georgio Armani, Caroline Shaw original print, Day, Alexander Mc Queen.

Moodboard by Caroline Shaw.

 

Ethereal Delight, by Caroline Shaw


Key notes on: inspiration, colours, fabrics and styles.


What’s the story?

Ultra feminine, translucent, ethereal, Edwardian influences mixed with opulent 1930’s Oriental styling. Combining freshness and lightness in colours, fabrics and prints to create a precious ‘almost not there ‘sensibility. Sensual corsetry and large-scale ethnic jewelry and hairpieces, add weight and depth to this Fairytale inspired story.


Colours.

Take inspiration from prim, fresh and tranquil tones. Ethereal and precious neutrals and mineral tones. The colours are ‘washes’ and flow together.
Think of Edwardian pottery colours, and delicate hints of feminine colours, sky drop blue, limestone, creamy ecru’s, dusky pink, stony mist. Add iridescent metallic silvers and soft golds for depth and luxury.   


Prints, embroideries and jacquards.

Embroideries recompose nostalgic and oriental botanicals or bird prints using metallic yarns. The scale of pattern is large and bold, softened by the delicate tonality of the palette, or light and delicate, to leave a mere hint of pattern. Often two or more patterns are mixed in an outfit to exalt fantasy without extravagance. 


Laces and serene open weaves.

Laces of all weights and designs are key to this story inspired by Edwardian purity. Often they are sparkled with a metallic lusture or metallic weaves. Lightweight, sheer fabrics create soft sculptured garments. Silky crepons, organza, voiles, crepes and gauzes create a fantasy feeling.    

Plains and colourwovens.

Plains take on a luxury aspect often with subtle lacquering.  Shine is moderated and plays with the fluid tone - on - tone colour story. Fabric weights are soft and fluid for draping and layering, often sheer with close woven weaves. Patterns are discrete, using tickings or tonal feminine shirt stripes. All fabrics have a natural delicacy to them: cotton poplins, satins, sateen’s, and silks.

 

Moodboard by Caroline Shaw

 

Credits: Missoni, Sportmax, Vogue 2005, Paola di Giovanni.

Moodboard by Caroline Shaw.

 

The Garden of Earthly Delights, by Caroline Shaw

Key notes on: inspiration, styles, colours and fabrics.

What’s the story?

Influences of old - fashioned values and Victorian summer gardens. Think of mixing style influences – Cold Mountain mixed with 70’s Laura Ashley! Utility fabrics in corseted styles.

Everything is feminine and delicate and inspired by nature.

Gone are the trashy values and ways of dressing. It all about a return to old-fashioned sensuality – a hint of wrist, empire line cuts, draping and layering of jerseys.

Colours:

Take inspiration from the Darling Bud’s of May – typical English summer garden…..

The palette is a soft array of natural yellows and greens sharpened by a dash of cooling lavender.

Corn, Buttermilk, Ochre, Gold, Sage Green, Mustard, Tobacco and Lavender.

Prints and Embroideries:

All patterns are taken literally from botany and inspired by flowers and plants in the garden the garden. The flower and plant designs range from tiny scale to huge Asian influences. (See mood board.)

Plains and colourwovens.

We see huge return to using natural yarns again - with a desire for ease and breathability. Cotton and linen yarns lead the way, with raw silk making a comeback. Weaves are inspired by nature – bamboo, natural slubs, seersucker and basketweave designs. Jerseys are natural, dry and slubbed, often using linen blends.      

Checks and stripes dominate – inspired by utility fabrics and in seen in all scales and tones of colour. Think mattress ticking, madras checks, tie-dye or organic finishes. Fabrics often have a futuristic feeling, achieved by the mixing metallic and natural yarns.  

 

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