Paris

The Prep:

What masses of work to start with, I was lucky that I had my partner Tom dealing with most of the paperwork before the exhibition. Every week from June until September 24 more paperwork would arrive. These papers covered everything from taxes, fees, decisions on what colour to have on the stand, lights and mirrors, chairs etc. It all made sense but we were not expecting so much of it as it was our first time for trade ever at this scale. There was also a huge amount regarding the different payment scales, terms and conditions, blah blah blah. France, it seems, is hugely in love with paperwork!

I had my philosophy and bio translated into French as 60% of buyers are French speaking only. That we found out a week before so luckily enough we know few French people. Preferable that you should have the whole press kit translated into French to make the most of it. Besides all of that it was a must if you want gain any publicity to have professional pictures taken. In my case I created an A3 sheet that combined look book images, bio, philosophy and press release.

I have to say that I saved about £2,000 pounds in graphic design as I have a strong background in Photoshop. Not only did I need a new press kit but I also needed a wall display and my black book was in need of a facelift so I re-did that completely.

I also created my own fabric prints in Photoshop. I sat there for three weeks designing patterns for my new collection; I came up with three types that worked together with the inspiration. If I had hired a print designer then I would end up eating rats for dinner. Even though I know a few good ones working with Cacharel, Donna Karan etc it wouldn't help. You save if you can multi-task and apply yourself to all elements when you are starting out in a design business.

Construction, sewing and designing was all by my hand and I managed to do 17 pieces in the best ever quality for Paris Expo. It is important for me to do my own prototypes as on that road I have developed so much by doing it myself and saved about £2,500 pounds in sewing and £2,000 pounds in construction. I worked from early morning and left the studio late at night. I happen to have a completely useless student as an assistant so instead of anger over that I did it all myself. No overlocking in my designs – it’s all French seems and pin hems. Working with difficult materials like crepe de chine, chiffon, organza, then easier materials like cotton poplin and satin.

Tom and Helena (a friend that is an ex-model and very good friend of mine) and me - plus all the clothes, a dummy, wall displays, press kits and our own luggage went down to Paris by car via the tunnel. The last you want is the shipping to be missed after you have put in so much work, I refused to fly, just thinking of those people throwing my clothes around the aircraft for them to arrive in a trashy pile, or worse get lost, was enough to justify driving. Also another top-tip to remember - book a hotel close to the expo well advance.

The Show:

First day of signing in and setting-up was a crazy mess, the place hard to find as it’s an absolutely huge place. 7 halls and in each there are 3-4 levels of all kinds of designs, from clothes, hats, jewellery, belts, shoes, you name it. From all over the world about 1800 designers and minimum stands are 9 sq, meter. The costs are way too much - but bear in mind that you can get £1800 pounds back from the BFC. Also save all your receipts because French VAT is refundable.

I was absolutely shattered by the first day of selling. I was also chain-smoking with the garbage people in the back most of that day while Helena and Tom were doing most of the talking. I went back and fourth to the stand to see if there was any action but it was empty. No people were at our level at all - very few with occasional Asian buyers popping in and out. I was thinking what is going on? Maybe the PR for the whole thing is crap or is the world economy in such crisis?

Day 2 I took the day off and returned on day 3 rested and with a positive attitude. We had way more people that day but they all seemed to be from and era of fashion that I remember from 2003 -2004, buyers that loved that whole embroidery and sort of prostitute looking dresses. iiaakkk! I couldn’t believe my eyes seeing my crazy neighbour designer selling her prostitute dresses and cheap skirts like crazy, but again some contemporary buyers popped by and took a press kit, running off quickly knowing that I would pounce on them if they hung around on my stand, they all seemed rather scared of the exhibitors. A woman from Women’s Wear Daily came by and sat down she was very calm and interested. She loved my whole concept and she said that it is nice to see proper fashion and not schmaada!

Overall I think this was a good experience, I found out that in Paris at these big trade shows it is not about fashion and design – but more about quantity and cost. So stay true to your design beliefs and always try to attend the exhibition before you apply.

Love Simon

http://www.simonekrelius.com

Images from: Simon's new S/S 08 collection 'Secrets in the Maze' with his own prints on the finest crepe de chine, lawn cotton, classic cotton satin with bemberg ponginette lining.