Both designers maintained their original yet wearable take on womenswear for the Spring/Summer 2008 season. And this is what makes them stand out from an ever-more commercialised and trend-driven fashion week. Their ability to balance fantastical colour combinations with effortless cut and proportion is undeniable.

Marios Schwab added a new dimension to his sharp tailoring and anatomical creations with striking thermal imaging prints of the body. Psychedelic colour alternated with layered florals and blacks opening up a whole new chapter in this designer’s late eighties, body-conscious aesthetic. I liked the considered approach in Schwab’s work…he’s very much returning to ‘himself’ for inspiration; his research, his passions and his own vision. I can see a clear progression from one season to the next and a healthy desire to keep pushing the boundaries and of staying fresh. Winner of ‘Best New Designer’ at the 2006 British Fashion Awards, Schwab won sponsorship from TopShop’s New Generation scheme for the third time this year. Definitely one to watch!

I was slightly disillusioned by Christopher Kane’s offering this season. His desire to ‘make the ugly look beautiful’ somewhat backfired. A collection of ill-fitting and mismatched frills and lace panels failed to strike a balance and fell short of the considered eccentricities of his past collections. Better luck next time!

Jonathan Saunders continued to impress with his elegant creations sticking to his trademark blacks, greys, whites and pastels in baby blue, candyfloss pink and lemon. I loved the strong sense of proportion and lightness that accompanies every garment; clean lines, clever relationships to the body and a majestic aura of confidence combined with comfort. A very mature look from another of my favourites for this season.

It was interesting to find out who the winner of this year’s Fashion Fringe competition was. Duo Aminaka Wilmont chose a contemporary black, white and grey palette echoing Nicolas Ghesquiere’s edgy 2007 Spring collection for Balenciaga. Fashion Fringe judge Colin McDowell had commented that the Balenciaga collection was ‘unwearable’. It would seem that the judging criteria received a ‘make-over’ in the ensuing weeks…

I was keen to see Gavin Douglas’ follow-up collection, last year’s Fashion Fringe winner. While he shows a real flair for design I feel the collection lacked any real direction and wallowed in well-worn clichés of ‘dressed-to-kill’ female sexuality. Fashion Week always throws up a wildly contrasting mix of styles in what’s become a global industry. The question to all aspiring designers remains the same. How to remain inspired without giving in to the pressures of a competitive market. 

By: Ismail Erbil