Catwalk Watch: Milan A/W 2007/08

There were lots of fresh and distinctive new trends on show for the autumn/winter season. TEXTURE is going to be big, big, big with numerous collections displaying tangible treats from scrunchy metallics, marabou feathers, fur (lots of it) and leather. OLD FASHIONED GLAMOUR was everywhere from 1930’s silver-screen siren evening dresses to prim and proper 40’s day dresses and an obvious reference to the 60 year anniversary of Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’.

AFRICANA looks set to infiltrate fashion and could be a look to watch out for come next spring with tribal prints and safari chic. TARNISHED METALS – metallics just don’t seem to want to shift but they tone down next season in muted shades of pewter, gun metal and old gold. MILITARY provides urban body armour with padded fabrics, combat colours and utility detailing.

STRUCTURED BLACK is everywhere and will provide the uniform for the season. For colour lovers, GOLDFISH will be the winter pick-me-up (think orange with top notes of red and undertones of yellow.) There is a fresh feel to the remaining colour palette with off-key yellows, ambers, spearmint, amethyst and ultramarine.

Prada

There was something quite retro about the shapes at Prada but it was at the same time, refreshingly contemporary and new. It was a wearable futuristic collection with a dash of Italian elegance. Structured black, slightly oversized shapes were coupled with lots of textured, tangible fabrics and rather unusual rusty/ decayed fabric techniques making for a highly unique aesthetic. Sober black was infused with life with sashes of brilliant colour - poison yellow, emerald, spearmint, amber and mustard.

Roberto Cavalli

Indiana Jones 4 is set for release later on this year and I can’t help but think that the current Cavalli is a super-glam ode to it. There’s a bit of a safari chic vibe with utility jackets, capes and old fashion huntin’ trousers in taupe and khaki of course. At the other end of the scale are forties/seventies style dresses in sparkling leopard print (keeping on the jungle theme) and loose chiffon African print numbers. Evening wear would not have looked out of place in a 40’s silver-screen siren movie with lots of full-length sparkle and satin pant/shirt combos a la Marlene Dietrich.

 Alberta Ferretti

The palette was quite sombre with various shades of stone grey and charcoal but complimented a typically wearable collection. There were lots of references to the fifties with smart shift dresses, oversized jackets and tulip skirts. There were affinities with Prada what with ‘dip-dyed’ print effects and experimental furry textures. Embellishment was key - armour like decorations adorned evening dresses whilst her trademark fluid chiffon Grecian styles also made an appearance.

Dolce & Gabbana

This seasons offering was a more commercial version of their inspiring futuristic spring/ summer collection. Waists remained cinched whilst fabrics ranged from textured ‘scrunched’ metallics to futuristic sexy secretary patent leather. The old-fashioned glamour look prevailed with romantic wispy chiffon and sparkle. Old gold, goldfish orange and pewter were staple colours. 

Gucci

Veronica Lake look-alikes sashayed down the catwalk in masculine/feminine 1940’s aviator style. Pilot jackets met voluminous trousers tucked into boots, feminised with signature Gucci florals.  Fur trim added a touch of luxury to tough styles whist military detailing solidified the look. Terracotta, mustard and leopard print all made an appearance whilst reverences to thirties Hollywood prevailed with simple but slinky floor-length dresses.

Burberry

Burberry was a shining example of the ‘urban assassin’ look we have seen of late. It provided the perfect body armour with lots of padding, military detail, and panels in combat colours such as khaki, stone and dull gold. Jackets and coats were key to this collection keeping the parka and trench trends alive. Tough structured leather sat alongside chunky knitwear. Again, the cinched waist remains a strong look whist lashings of black with dashes of colour on coats and prints added interest. Strong but focussed embellishment also made a show.

Versace

Like D&G, this collection offered the option of both the hourglass and the voluminous silhouette. Signature Versace was offered with sleek and slinky shapes along side on-trend oversized fifties jackets and sixties beatnik references. Beautiful chiffon dresses (fit for a goddess) were offered in muted putty and powdered amethyst. The season’s hue of the moment, Goldfish also made an appearance.

Fendi

Karl Lagerfeld delivered with variety for the Fendi fan. There was a nod to Dior’s New Look with pencil skirts, shift dresses and wide jackets. Structured black was yet again a key feature, whilst futurism was paid tribute to in sculptural shoulders. ‘Yeti’ fur was a cosy winter luxury whilst the dull days will be seen off with rainbow dashes brightening neutral colours. Watch out for Africana with a stylish use of tribal prints.

By Becky Lyon