London Fashion Week - Editor’s Round-Up… Print E-mail
We went, we saw and we experienced, so what was the general consensus about this season’s London Fashion Week, which collections got those tongues wagging and what will be the top trends to watch out for come autumn?

 

ImageIn terms of hype, the designer that can do no wrong, Mr Marc Jacobs, caused an almighty stir when he announced he would be showing his diffusion collection this side of the pond. Invites were like gold dust and Claridge’s ballroom was packed to the rafters with many disappointed fashionista’s left loitering outside. Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue said that she thought the week attracted “a lot of international interest,” because of the fact that Marc Jacobs was showing in the capital. She also mentioned ‘The Face of Fashion’ exhibition which also opened at the National Portrait Gallery during the week brought some of the industries top photographers to town.

 

 

Elsewhere, away from the catwalks The Brits and The Elle Style Awards ensured glamour and red carpet dressing aplenty. As for front row faces at the shows, the usual fashion pack suspects were present in the shape and form of: Hilary Alexander, Suzy Menkes, Colin McDowell et al, plus not forgetting to mention a rather impressionable petite lady donning some incredibly large hats.

 

 

ImageConsidering all the parties and awards shows coinciding with the week the front row did seem to be lacking on the celeb front. Amongst those that did attend were: Susannah Constantine, Lulu, Selma Blair, Lady Gabriella Windsor and Thandie Newton.

 

 

While there was a buzz around on-schedule designers such as Christopher Kane, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh and, of course, Marc Jacobs, I actually preferred the ambience of the On/Off shows at the Royal Academy. Welcomed by Johnny, the ever-so-friendly meet-and-greet guy on the door, the pure white, classical surroundings made for an elegant and clean backdrop against which were some of the most interesting and coherent shows.

 

 

 

Editor’s top 5 picks on-schedule:

 

 

Jens LaugesenGardem

 

Sleek, minimal, luxurious and dark; its masculine dressing combined with feminine cuts finished to perfection.

 

 

Gardem

 

A clever blend of 18th century references combined with modern layers, drapes and pleats. Finally the fashion pack are sitting up and taking note.

 

 

Gavin Douglas

 

For his LFW debut at the BFC tent, fashion fringe winner Douglas put on a polished show while remaining faithful to his couture-esque style. With a firm nod to the 40s, the collection was strong, sexy with lashings of visual appeal.

 

 

Manish Arora

 

While black proved to be the colour of choice, closely followed by grey, red and white those who crave colour can always find it at Manish Arora. The make-up was pure kabuki while the clothes revealed heavily embroidered fabrics in clean, wearable shapes.

 

 

Gharani Strok

 

Known for their slinky easy-to-wear dresses and delicious prints Gharani Strok surprised us all when they served up a modern menu of clean line tailoring and Sixties shapes. Admirably proving that they are willing to develop their range and step out of their comfort zone.

 

 

 

Editor’s top 5 picks off-schedule:

 

Avsh Alom Gur Avsh Alom Gur

 

Gur staunchly remains true to his personal design philosophies; he combines global references such as Bedouin tribes or techniques from the Far East with his own fabric manipulations such as folds, drapes and gathers. Definitely one to keep an eye on.

 

Osman Yousefzada

 

Osman has a unique way of combining draped sections with controlled tailoring resulting in designs that are distinctive and fresh. Contrast remains key as opposing textures and weights are combined with tradition and modernity.

 

Weardowney

 

Beautiful knits you’d be hard pushed to find anywhere else. Particularly wonderful were the fitted mini-dresses that had ‘wear me’ written all over them.

 

Berube

 

Completely wearable and yet still exciting, Berube creates key pieces that can be styled to become your own. Her four-tone palette of black, grey, white and silver is right on-trend and her 80s references reveals she is one step ahead.

 

 

Julia Clancey

 

Julien Macdonald watch out! There’s a new queen of drop-dead gorgeous party frocks in town and that’s Miss Julia Clancey. With just the right amount of glitz and glamour Clancey adds a dash of sassy chic with flapper girl references and embellished skull-caps.

 

 

Editor’s picks at the exhibition:

 

Hannah Marshall (showing at On/Off exhibition)

 

Sexy, sleek, incredibly body-conscious and yet remaining well away from tarty territory. Modern classics in head-to-toe black.

 Jenne O shoes

Jenne O

 

Sexy shoes loaded with fetishistic qualities. From neon brights to snakeskin heels; Jenne O is currently stocked in Browns Focus and customers, it seems, can’t get enough.

 

Enamore

 

From the growing range of ethical labels showing in the Estethica section at LFW, Enamore creates beautiful clothing, lingerie and accessories from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, silk, cotton and soya.

 

 

Key Trends coming your way this autumn…

 

Modernism

 

 

Sky-High Waists

 

 

 

Victoriana Detailing

 

 

 

 

Short mini lengths

 

 

Body con dressing

 

 

Sleek 1940s

 

 

Art Deco references

 

 

Dramatic floor length evening gowns

 

 

Colours: Black, slate, red, electric blue, cream, white, silver.

 

 

Check back soon for Becky Lyon’s round-up on the collections in Milan

 

 

By JoJo Iles

 

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