Fabrics

1. Sheer Thing

This is definitely one of the more feminine looks on the S/S catwalks but surprisingly prevalent everywhere from transparent virgin-white blouses at Costume National to gauzy, loose-knit ‘jackets’ at John Galliano. This trend is not easy to wear on a day-to–day basis but could possibly be layered over and under thin tees for commerciality.

2. Metallics

Metallics are a huge story for the new season and also infiltrate womenswear trends. The effect ranges from a discreet shimmery sheen at Costume National to full on sparkly sequined cardigans at Burberry. Lamé, shimmering brocades and metallic flecked fabrics are key. Again, it is a look that will automatically appear a bit Scissor Sisters and although it has been styled quite subtly on the catwalk, it probably isn’t for the faint hearted so should be left for the theatrical extroverts and frequenters of G.A.Y.

Colour 

1. Golden Boy

Gold is a key feature colour for S/S and was best embodied with Comme des Garcons metallic suit. Top to bottom may connote Christmas decoration (wrong season) or spaceman so stick to a toe-in-the-water approach with gold trimmings, a statement evening jacket or accessories.

2. Satsuma

Orange makes its mark as the statement colour of the summer. You can already picture orange shorts by the pool and tangerine shirts on the beach. It’s a fun, juicy colour and will no doubt pay a key role when the holiday season comes.  This vibrant hue will be best worn in block colour but will easily provide a striking trim.

3. Neutral Cool

For the classic gentleman, gold and orange will no doubt be giving them something of a near coronary. But don’t worry, neutrals are big big big (especially head to toe) and are by no means boring. To combat the absence of colour there is special focus on the forms of the fabric and silhouette. Fine, ‘greige’ coloured knits are soft and slouchy at Calvin Klein and suiting is softer in stoney grey at Dirk Schonberger.  

Directions

1. Seventies Slick

There is something distinctly seventies in the air and it is simultaneously smooth and sharp. You just can’t help but think of Cavalli’s midnight-blue, sateened, bell-bottomed, tight jacketed figure (below) as a John Travolta for the 00’s. Gucci owned this trend with a distinct homage to everything seventies disco-fever. From dashing, sharply-cut suits to loud prints, two-toned shoes and skinny trousers. YSL also did a good job with a healthy dose of colour clashing and dandy neckties.

2. Dandy Surf

Victorian dandyism, napoleon nautical and the vibrancy of Hawaiian hibiscus prints made a beautiful fusion at the likes of Louis Vuitton, Etro and Dries Van Noten mixing vibrant ‘bloomers’ and shirts with crisply cut jackets or slick suits. It’s a real re-mixed summer trend and exudes a certain nostalgic-seaside romanticism.

3. Athletic edge

For men’s men there is always sportswear, and this season it is athleticism with attitude. Issey Miyake created minimalist, designer hoodies in striking colours like pea green whilst DSquared and JPG put gym kit on the runway in all its vest and basketball glory. Colours are strong and blocked in royal blue, yellow and this season’s orange.

4. Indie Kids

Heidi Slimane pretty much invented this look for the masses and could probably claim ownership. This silhouette for this look is signature- skinny and the aesthetic is pure rock and roll glamour. It’s very androgynous/unisex in parts with sixties-style graphic tunics, low cut t-shirts, metallics and if you can believe it… jersey halter necks (plus a few military details thrown in for masculine good-measure.)

5. Shorts

Women had a shorts revival with the ‘city short’ and then later, a cropped version and now it’s the boys turn but this time. Shorts come in the guise of baggy culottes, paired with smart blazers as a possible alternative to a summer work uniform (?)

Styling Details

1. Braces

Braces are a key styling detail and range from 1930’s style at Yohji Yamamoto (complete with trilby) to trompe l’oeil at Neil Barrett and chimney sweep style over opened pirate-shirt at John Paul Gaultier.

2.    Trench coats and shorts

The trench coat and shorts combination might seem like a bit of a walking contradiction but was a key styling trend spotted on the runways. The coats adopt a neutral palette whilst coupled with holiday-toned shorts for a contrasting mix.

Looking Forward…A/W 2007/8

·         Invest in the sporty look as it will become more prevalent as a trend with a quirky twist come A/W 2007/8.

·        The smart tux look is in as well, so take note of slick shapes and braces.

By Becky Lyon