John Bates grew up in the North East and moved to London in the late 1950s without a jot of formal training. With nothing but ambition, drive and a talent for drawing he worked for a string of fashion houses and established the ‘Jean Varon’ label in 1959, with the aid of two financial backers. The concept behind the house was to produce stylish clothes for women on a modest budget.

 Jean Varon became highly successful, not only in the UK, but was sold internationally in over 50 countries. It was also the label that became synonymous with the popular TV series ‘The Avengers.’ John Bates designed the outfits worn by actress Diana Rigg, known as Emma Peel in the hit show. ABC Television and Jean Varon went on to produce The Avengers collection, made under license by various fashion manufacturers which went down a storm with the general public. Popular styles included shift mini-dresses and black & white Op Art fur coats.

 In 1974, Bates developed a second line, which was called John Bates. The new house used pricier fabrics and intricate construction details, Bates described the line as ‘almost couture ready-to-wear clothes.’

 Over the years Bates developed a broad range of styles and looks that truly reflected the spirit of the age. From PVC mini-dresses in the mid 60s to Puritan pinafore style frocks in the early 70s; John Bates collections are crammed full of design details that continue to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

The Sixties: Jean Varon Avengers Collection dress in red wool with cross design 1965/66, white mini dress and coat with silver collar 1966, high-waisted evening dress with black polka dots 1965/66.

The Sixties: The Jean Varon Avengers Collection black & white fur coat 1965, red PVC mini-dress 1967, mini-dress with white collar and cuffs 1965.

Prints: A selection of prints from the early 70s inspired by floral and bubble designs.

Prints: Multi-coloured jerseys inspired by arches and columns, florals and multi-coloured spots.

Eveningwear: Black synthetic jersey with tie-belt and lantern sleeves, Djellabah in black silk jersey with sequins in a bird design 1973/74, black jersey with embroidered panel in rose design 1973/74.

Seventies Top Stitching: Black jersey with brown stitching and dome buttons 1974/75, green crepe with cream stitching 1972/73, blue Courtelle jersey with white stitching 1974.

Checks & Spots: Tiered black & white gingham with white seersucker bodice 1973, red and white Diolen and cotton voile in spot design 1972, black and white gingham with broderie anglaise bodice 1973.

John Bates Exclusive Range: Silk dress with pheasant feathers 1979/80, wedding dress of cream wool embroidered in silk and beads in flower design, hat by Frederick Fox 1975, Djellabah of black wool with applied blue silk in flower design 1976/77.

Details: Mamaluke sleeve, embroidered bird design, JB Belt.

Thanks to John Bates and the Museum of Costume.

By JoJo Iles

www.fashionpr.co.uk