Robert’s New Zealand Fashion Week Diary September 2006

My NZ Fashion Week started with 3 Air Kisses on Monday morning while registering. I’m going to keep a score - see if I can make 100 air kisses by the end of the week.

My first show called ‘Sampler’ featured 3 separate designers, the first being Doris de Pont. She combined hot reds with camels, browns and denim blues which gave it a South American flavour. Cropped jackets, cardigans and empire line dresses were layered-up and styled with bright leggings, chunky wrist-warmers and homburg hats. I particularly liked the hoods, which were detachable and yet appeared to be part of the garment. Hoods, they’re having a fashion moment, I can feel it.

Doris was followed by IPG, which also combined hot red this time with black and white. Overall the mood hinted at ancient Greece, draped tops and plunging necklines combined with knickerbockers and lean-cut pants. An off-the-shoulder glittery knit suggested early 80s disco-fever but the dark cat-eye make-up and wavy-set hair suggested 1950s South American beauty’s to my mind. Hemlines have shifted up with a few classic black minis and black contrasted with white looks like a strong story for winter. On another note, some of the models in this show were very thin, with no breasts…??

Andrea Moore wrapped up the trio with a very autumnal look of wide belted coats over silky dresses and warm separates in hues of cream, ruby, steel, slate and black. A grown-up collection styled with berets and scarves – it was luxury chic for the chilly season. The show rounded-off with a tune from a trumpeter - quite effective I thought.

Nom*d, meanwhile, went the grungy route with dark knitted layers worn over black and white checked tights. Hoods, loose straps and patchwork effects added to the Nom*dic mix with a play on masculine/feminine themes. I must say this season is turning into a frocks, belts and boots fest. Nom*d had some great boots which were obviously handmade for them. Contrasting textures in tones of black, grey and brown were accented with flashes of orange, red, green and yellow.

Huffer, the skateboarders favourite went slightly old skool in a very 80s kinda way. Drain pipes, overalls and boxing boots combined with checked shirts, hoodies and tees. Unisex prevailed again – as did layering.

Popped over the Verge Breakthrough 1 show - which presented several designers in one go. First up it was Touche, mainly tiny bikinis that left little to the imagination. Not my thing really, while some of the vest & knicker sets were pretty I kept thinking how under-nourished the girls looked…and underdressed!

Next was Ooby Ryn, strange name, this collection touched on the Bohemian feel a la Stevie Nicks. Cut velvets, masculine suits and empire line checked frocks brought up to date with waist cinching belts, cut-off tights and platform heels. Keucke, meanwhile, displayed an on-trend collection of slippery fabrics trimmed with lace – very pretty and very now.

Trelise Cooper is another designer that leans towards the feminine and romantic, although her collection had a girly gothic feel. Lots of lace trims, satin bows, frills plus a touch of lingerie and childrenswear too. The dusty pinks looked particularly good with the slate grey and dresses layered over pants and tops followed what’s been going on elsewhere. Hyped as the show to watch Juliette Hogan has caused quite an industry buzz. Baby doll dresses, beautifully cut pants and a play on tonal shades her collection looked slick and together.

So many shows and so little time, would just like to mention the Lonely Hearts Club – their collection was shown as an installation. Slouchy cottons, cape coats, high-waisted pants and belted sweater dresses in block tones of red, black and grey. It was youthful, fun and not a million miles away from the design aesthetics of Karen Walker. Meanwhile, Zambesi displayed one of the strongest shows of the week by combining volume and fit that was easy on the eye. Colours remained nautical with black, marine navy, petrol blue, sand and rust while the combination of fabrics included thick woolens, plush velvets, slippery satins and tough denims.

Top A/W 07 shows of the week… 

Zambesi

Nom*d

Huffer

Juliette Hogan

5 Key trends from the NZ Catwalks

1 Checks 

2 Layering 

3 Slippery silk frocks 

4 Hot red accents

5 Frock, belt and boots combos

Words by Robert Lloyd & JoJo Iles

Images by Michael Ng / Air New Zealand Fashion Week