Gothika

It seems fashion has reignited its love affair with dark sombre shades and romantic gothic themes. Parisians in particular reflected this opulent, deeply mysterious mood with Jean Paul Gaultier, Ann Demeulemeester, Christian Dior and Noir leading the way. Reinterpreted for a new season the look is given a fresh twist by combining several textures and creating a feminine and chic silhouette. Other designers inspired by the dark side include: Chanel, Givenchy, Moschino and Prada.

Short ‘n’ Chic

Hemlines are on the up but forget blast-of-the-past micro-minis and think above the knee to mid-thigh in chic structured cuts. Puff hems carry on where tulip shapes left off while clean shift dresses gives a minimal and yet classic feel that’s easy on the eye. From Proenza Schouler in New York to Gharani Strok in London designers are bringing out those femme fatale collections and revealing a bit of leg while they are at it.   

Tradition on Check

From plaids and glen checks to houndstooth and herringbone, heritage fabrics could be found on many a designer catwalk. In New York the likes of Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Diane Von Furstenberg incorporated traditional fabrics into their collections. Elsewhere, Alexander McQueen, Aquascutum and Vivienne Westwood joined in by combining rustic textures with feminine lines and romantic detailing.   

Layer Cake

Some have mentioned that a return to the grunge days of the early 90s is lingering and while Marc Jacobs more than hints at the past with his latest layered up collection you’ll note it all maintains a luxurious edge. For those that don’t want to look like they have piled on their entire wardrobe before stepping out the door check out the winning combinations from the likes of Louis Vuitton and Jessica Ogden. Polo-necks under dresses, leggings under skirts and blouses under sweaters - preferably in sumptuous fabric combinations. Trend leader Marc Jacobs gives his collection a heavier feel with oversized knits and layers galore while keeping it all rather wearable and cosy.

Boy Meets Girl

That old favourite - androgynous dressing has reared its head once again. Not to be taken too literally designers will throw in an oversized masculine coat here and tailored gentleman’s trouser there but overall the mood is lightened with feminine separates. Check out Paul Smith Women, Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten for borrowed from boyfriend style combined with a softer edge.

Other key trends to watch out for:

·         Retro – While Carolina Herrera took inspiration from the late 50s and the catwalk featured many a 40s Katherine Hepburn wide-leg trouser, the majority gave a nod to the 60s via Peter Pan collars, short toggle coats, sweater dresses and mini lengths. Elsewhere, the 80s also crept in with fitted forms, glossy fabrics and a touch of leopard print.

·         Regal – Puff sleeves, bows and frilly blouses as seen at Fendi and Dsquared for a touch of prim and proper.

·         Parisian Chic – Nipped-in-waist skirt suits, tailored jackets and high class dressing from Hermes, Viktor & Rolf and Andrew Gn.

·         Extra Large – Pumping up the volume to oversized proportions check out Yohji Yamamoto, Missoni and Marni.

·         Autumn/Winter 06/07 Colour Palette: Black, blue-black, slate grey, deep brown, tan, berry, forest, blood red and winter white.

·         Structural elements incorporated into feminine designs

·         Touches of leopard print, embellishment and bright tones

·         Emphasis on the collar and neckline

·         Knitted hats & cone heels

By JoJo Iles 

www.fashionpr.co.uk