London Fashion Week - Day 2 15th February 2006

It's no secret that London Fashion Week is full of after-show parties that can go on into the wee hours. The result is the dreaded first show of the day - will the fash pack get up and get suitably attired in time? Those that missed out today's first presentation Gardem Paris should kick themselves now as the collection was nothing short of stunning. Luxurious fabrics and immaculate production meets the dark and mysterious world of Gardem. Conceptual, classic and sexy, although not obviously so, the collection was inspired by 19th century designs often playing on the corset. Gardem’s palette rarely strayed from black, grey and mushroom - while the overall mood was dark, romantic and yet incredibly modern. Strong silhouettes were combined with complicated construction details while pleats, layering and lacing featured through-out.

After seeing lorry-loads of tightly belted waists and fitted forms a relaxed easy collection came as a welcome relief. Julie Berube has become known for her laid-back style twinned with innovative elegance. Key shapes range from wide-leg pants, hooded shirt dresses and cosy wool coats are combined with details such as oversized collars, ruffle bibs and pleated trims. Inspired by the leading ladies in classic movies such as Annie Hall and Cabaret, Berube brings in modern lines and a touch of street styling - check out her elegant take on the hoodie. Tones, meanwhile, range from black, cream, soft grey, tan and bitter chocolate while faded stripes and pearl buttons complete the look.

Round two for Aganovich & Yung, this design duo have already built up an impressive following and it's only their second off-schedule show. Continuing where they left off last season - think beautiful slinky pieces with quirky styling details. Belted macs, fitted shirt dresses and button up pencil skirts that gave ladylike a serious dose of sex without veering into tarty territory. Much in the same vein as Agent Provocateur but in the arena of fashion Aganovich & Yung are slightly naughty with their glossy fabrics - heightened all the more by showing the collection in a church. Details included tie necklines, contrast panelling, piping and pleats while tones remained in the deep quarters of black, petrol, berry and slate.

John Rocha is not one for leaving his handcrafted roots but this season he seems to have watered them down. There are still signature rosette embellishments and crochet details but this season they are combined with strong silhouettes in heavy wools, brocades and velvets. Shapes are voluminous and bubble-like while gathered hems taper everything in. Designs envelop and cocoon the body and the feel is one of relaxed femininity. As with many other designers this season Rocha rarely strays from black but when he does he brings cream, rose and biscuit into the equation. 

It's fair to say that when you think Ghost you think floaty, feminine, wearable and pretty - a formula that has brought in customers from far and wide. Are you sitting comfortably? Because while the trademark Ghost formula is still intact this autumn they've sexed it all up giving the label a fresh new direction. First up, all models donned retro pointy bras - drawing all eyes to the bust. When worn under fine jerseys and stretch lace it really was a case of ‘check out those twin peaks.’ Over in the prim corner was Victorian blouses, belted cardi's and high waisted pencil skirts while leggings, lacy designs and skin tight jersey dresses gave it all the risqué factor. Colours included aubergine, plum, hot red, grey, chocolate and black while key details ranged from high collars, chiffon frills and curved hemlines. 

Diane von Furstenberg is proof that one timeless winning design can set you up in the world of fashion. It’s a theory Issa is adhering to - by concentrating on a handful of flattering dress shapes that women will buy time and time again the label is free to concentrate on its speciality – print. Just as the perfect jersey dress will wrap, fit and twist in all the right places so does Issa’s carefully considered eye-catching patterns. From animal prints to feathers and abstract forms – colour and print are successfully managed into wearable art. For night a smattering of iridescent sequins adds shimmer while darker evening tones come in to play. No wonder Issa has become such a hit with the ‘it’ crowd – its dress-and-go style with masses of chic appeal.   

By JoJo Iles