It’s London Fashion Week September 2004. Half way through the proceedings Bernard Connolly - fashion stylist and myself are already flagging. Sat in the press room we are discussing what we’ve seen, where, and who we liked, and why. Interesting ideas, strong collections, exciting shows – yes there’s all that - but there’s also an incredible amount of waiting. The hard and fast rule as any fashion week novice will discover is to ignore the time specified on the invite and to get LFW’s – Omega Timeline on speed-dial. A delay of an hour is usually par for the course but as the day moves on the hold-ups get somewhat more erratic. Bernard spots a fashion friend across the room, who promptly tells him to “stop wasting time hanging around and to pop over to the Ritz where Ben Maher is having a presentation soiree.” Truth is, Bernard and I discuss on the way over, we’ve never heard of Ben Maher…

Ben Maher was a professional dancer; he graduated from the Laban Centre and performed with various dance companies, as well as appearing on-screen. By the late-1990’s Ben decided to branch out his career, he studied at the London College of Fashion and gained experience assisting the likes of - Matthew Williamson, Donna De Francq and Roland Mouret. Juggling his career as a performer and a designer Ben created costumes for a broad range production companies including – The Royal Ballet, Random Dance Company and The Royal Opera House. Catwalk presentations include the V&A museum and The Alternative Hair show at the Dury Lane Theatre. Ben is now concentrating on his luxurious demi-couture collections and prêt-a-porter range; here he talks to Fashion Capital about his latest Spring/Summer 2005 collection ‘Grace’ and his thoughts on the fashion scene in general…    

Ben Maher

Q Contact details:

Ben: Ben Maher - + 44 207 357 68 96
PR: Bryan Morel PR - + 44 207 437 56 54

Q How and when did you begin your label?

Ben: I initially began with a capsule collection in August 2001. Despite a positive response from clients and the press, the unfortunate events of 9/11 had a large effect on the industry and I was in New York at the end of that month touring with a dance company I had designed costumes for. I was knocking on closed doors. As I have no formal training in fashion it took a further two years of research - trial and error - to understand the industry and the craft of making three dimensional objects in my head, into pieces that could be translated onto the body. I then officially launched the collection in 2003 with a small salon show.

Q Your label is built around decadence and elegance, what made you decide to concentrate on the exclusive end of the market?

Ben: Having spent a number of years designing for the stage with a lot of design restrictions and budget limitations, I decided I would try to do the most difficult thing first - Couture based collections working only with pure silks. The ideas I have about dressing are based around beauty elegance and grace, I don't in particular think it is exclusive, even though it may not be practical I would love to see clients wearing the pieces out to go to the supermarket - just because they felt were in that kind of mood!

Q Do you feel that your years as a professional dancer has influenced the way you look at fabric and garments?

Ben: It had more of an influence over my understanding of the form and function of a garment. My approach is often to do with my understanding of body, motion and sensation, of how clothing can affect our lives.

Q How do you feel about the current state of the UK fashion scene and the craze for fast-fashion on the High Street?

Ben: Unfortunately we live in a brand based consumer culture; we should really sell clothes without any labels in them. The technology is so advanced within the high street that it can mimic the original ideas of designers at a faster rate than they produce them. The high street is supporting and feeding a lost culture that is trying to find an identity with too many reference points.

London's fashion scene is one of the most exciting in the world for creativity, but people, at present are too afraid to show that they have made an effort in their appearance; we celebrate the underdog society here. I think things are about to change but it is difficult as there is not a body that supports the diversity of fashion creativity that is here.

Q Tell us a bit about your latest pieces...

Ben: I am exploring purity. I am looking more at structure and form and ways to support the body whilst keeping fluidity and motion intrinsic to the work. I am also exploring new fabrics like cashmere and wool. Each piece is about individuality and celebrating the form. It feels a bit uncohesive as a "collection" at the moment but I quite like that sensation, it’s a new approach for me.

Q Was September your first presentation during London Fashion Week? And do you have any show plans for next season?

Ben: I have presented two shows previously, one I mentioned before. The second, for Autumn/Winter 2004, was for a charity event where we helped to raise over a hundred thousand pounds for children's charity. Next season we are presenting a show during London Fashion Week in association with Jaguar.

Q What are the best and worst aspects of working in the fashion industry?

Ben: One aspect is that fashion is something intangible, hence it will always be exciting, but the best aspect is the thrill on a clients face when you have created something for them. The worst aspect is the bad manners of people in the industry. It is often to do with ego, one has to take the approach of "get over it - it's just a frock!"

Q Are there any designers that you particularly admire?

Ben: The original Balenciaga and Dior, also the costumier Edith Head.

Q What inspires you?

Ben: Ladies who can enter a room and capture the attention of the entire room without saying or doing anything.

Q Future plans/projects on your agenda...

Ben: To build on our client base, and have an atelier show room in London and Paris.

Q Current stockists:

Ben: At present we provide a made to order service. We are looking for a stockist with the prêt-a-porter range.

By JoJo Iles