| Designer profile: Sophia Kokosalaki |
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Many, many years ago, back in the days when Greek mythology was taken literally, the Greek's found amusement and game in a serious of competitions. Originally created to honour the God Zeus, the Olympic Games were a religious festival of sacrifice and competitive sports where athletes usually competed in the nude, proudly displaying their perfect bodies. Dating back to 776BC they were discontinued in the 4th century AD before being revised in 1896 in their place of origin, Athens.
In November 2002 Sophia was appointed the to job of chief designer for the Olympic Games
"All of the visual elements are inspired by the past," said Theodora Mantzaaris-Kindel, manager of image and identity for the 2004 Olympics, "but the renderings of the designs are contemporary. Fluid forms, uneven shapes, vivid colours are combined to create a unique identity, easily recognisable as Greek, but also modern."
It was in November 2002 that Sophia was appointed the job as chief designer for the Games, giving her the envied job of overseeing all of the costumes for the opening and closing ceremonies, as well as the official's and team's uniforms.
Described by the fashion press as 'achingly hip' and 'every fashion insider's favourite', Kokosalaki is fast building a reputation as a fierce competitor herself in the sport of fashion
"It is a very moving experience," says Sophia. "Don't expect an extravaganza; there will be traditional elements, but no folklore. This is very different from working on a collection. You won't be seeing any ancient Greeks, it's more conceptual, stretching my ability to work on things which have no relation to ready-to-wear, and it involved endless research."
Described by the fashion press as 'achingly hip' and 'every fashion insider's favourite', Kokosalaki is fast building a reputation as a fierce competitor herself in the sport of fashion. With super cool fellow British designer, Alexander McQueen, giving the proverbial nod by turning up to her Autumn/Winter 2003 catwalk show, she really can't go wrong.
The collection, a storm trooper-cum-Star Wars adventure was so well received that the result was the collection (her first commercial venture) being snapped up by Joseph, as well as the designer being offered the position as knitwear designer for Joseph's own label. Since then Kokosalaki has gone from strength to strength.
Her graduate collection was so well received that the result was the collection (her first commercial venture) being snapped up by Joseph
By March 2000, after yet another catwalk success with her own-name label, Kokosalaki was contracted by Milan based label 'Ruffo Research'. Joy Yaffe, who is responsible for the Research project, offered Kokosalaki the job of chief designer for the collection.
By 2001, Kokosalski was well on the road to establishment within the well-informed fashion set. Building up a signature with her increasingly distinctive style of complicated strapping, web-like latticework and fine tailoring, the designer was carving a name for herself as a one-to-watch fashion designer. In April that same year she was contacted by TopShop to design a range for its TS Design label, for both Autumn/Winter 2001 and Spring/Summer 2002.
But it was for her ninth collection in February this year that the designer grabbed headline coverage. Her Autumn/Winter 2003 collection wowed the crowds at London Fashion Week with a space age theme that had her own personal stamp all over it.
It was for her ninth collection in February this year that the designer grabbed headline coverage. Her Autumn/Winter 2003 collection wowed the crowds at London Fashion Week with a space age theme that had her own personal stamp all over it
Sponsored by TopShop, Kokosalaki's collection consisted of minimal dresses with cleverly constructed seeming imaginative cutaway features and intricately pleated and stitched leather all in a palette of black, white and silver. And things just continued to get better.
"I remembered what it was like to be on holiday," she says. "The colours, the smells. As I am Greek and this was my tenth collection I thought, why not revisit my design roots and refine my experiments using the knowledge I have gained over the last five years? Most of my summer collections have been urban, this time I made it just right for people who travel."
"Greece is my home and I cannot ignore it," says Kokosalaki, and thank the fashion gods she didn't.
"I'm happiest when I'm researching and draping fabric on my mannequin. I love surprising myself."
And it certainly does. With the fashion press crying for more, Sophia Kokosalaki can safely go into the Olympics already a Gold medalist where her work is concerned.
Summing up her work Kokosalaki says: "I'm happiest when I'm researching and draping fabric on my mannequin. I love surprising myself."
by Nicola Brewer
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Nicola Brewer looks at the rise and rise of the 'achingly hip' designer Sophia Kokosalaki. 
Thankfully today's competitors have to follow the rule of being fully clothed, and next year sees the games being brought back home as Athens plays host to the biggest sporting event on the calendar. With the huge success of the Sydney Olympics in 2000 one department is busy trying to get the look just right - the style department.
